PETG sits in a sweet spot between PLA and ABS. It is stronger and more heat-resistant than PLA, easier to print than ABS, and has good chemical resistance. It is a natural choice for functional parts that need to handle some stress or warmth.
The catch is that PETG has a few specific quirks. It strings more than PLA, it sticks to some build surfaces almost too well, and it likes slightly different settings than what works for PLA. Once you know what to expect, it is a very capable material.
PETG is hygroscopic (it absorbs moisture from the air), it has a higher printing temperature than PLA, and it flows differently - it is stickier and more viscous when melted. These properties mean it grips build surfaces aggressively, tends to string between parts, and benefits from minimal cooling compared to PLA.
Nozzle temperature: 230-250C. Start at 235C and adjust. Higher temperatures improve layer adhesion but increase stringing.
Bed temperature: 70-85C. PETG adheres best to a warm bed. Start at 75C.
Part cooling fan: 30-50%. PETG needs less cooling than PLA - too much fan reduces layer adhesion and can cause delamination. Too little causes stringing and drooping on overhangs.
Print speed: 40-60mm/s. PETG generally prints better slightly slower than PLA. The stickier melt needs a little more time to bond correctly.
Retraction:
PETG is prone to stringing, so retraction is important - but too much retraction causes grinding and clogs. Start conservative and increase in small steps.
Use the print settings cheat sheet for a full settings reference.
PETG can stick so aggressively to some surfaces that it pulls the surface coating off when you try to remove the print. This is especially common with:
Best approach:
If a print is well and truly stuck, put the build plate in the freezer for 10 minutes. The differential thermal contraction usually pops it free.
Do not use hairspray or other adhesives intended to increase grip - PETG does not need them and you will make the problem worse.
PETG strings more than PLA by nature, but it is controllable. The main levers are:
Temperature: Try dropping nozzle temperature by 5-10C. A lower temperature means less oozing between moves.
Retraction: Increase retraction distance in 0.5mm steps until stringing improves, but stop before you get grinding or clogs.
Travel speed: Increase the travel (non-printing movement) speed. The faster the nozzle moves between parts, the less time plastic has to drip.
Combing / avoid crossing perimeters: Enable this in your slicer. It routes travel moves through the inside of the model rather than across open air, eliminating most stringing without touching retraction.
See the full stringing fix guide for a complete walkthrough.
If your PETG prints are delaminating or layers are separating, the most common causes are:
PETG absorbs moisture more readily than PLA. After a few weeks of open storage in a humid environment, you will notice:
If you notice these symptoms, dry the spool at 65C for 4-6 hours in a filament dryer or food dehydrator before printing. Store in a sealed bag with desiccant between uses.
Choose PETG when:
Stick with PLA when:
See the PLA vs PETG vs ABS comparison for a full breakdown.